Sagging, dragging and won't-latch gates fixed, and new walk and drive gates built strong enough to stay square.
A gate is a lever hanging off one post. Over time the weight pulls the latch side down. There are three usual causes, and the fix depends on which one it is:
| Cause | How to tell | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Gate frame racking | The gate is out of square but the post is plumb | Diagonal brace from the bottom hinge corner up to the top latch corner, or a steel gate frame |
| Hinge post moving | The post leans toward the gate when you open it | Reset or replace the post, deeper and in concrete |
| Worn hardware | Hinges are loose, bent or screws are stripped | Heavier hinges with through-bolts |
A brace installed the wrong direction (from top hinge to bottom latch) does nothing. It's the most common gate mistake we see.
Want it to open on its own? See automatic driveway gates.
Most can be fixed with a proper brace, new hinges or a reset post. If the wood is rotted or the frame is badly racked, a new gate costs less than repeated fixes.
At least 12 feet for cars and trucks. Go 14 to 16 feet if you pull a boat or trailer through or the driveway approaches at an angle.
Yes. We cut in the opening, set new gate posts in concrete and build a gate to match the fence.
Wood swells in humid weather and the ground shifts with rain. Proper clearance at the latch and bottom, plus solid posts, keeps a gate working all year.
